MAHALE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK
Size:
1,613 sq km (623 sq miles). Located Western Tanzania,
bordering Lake Tanganyika.
Set deep in the heart of the African interior,
inaccessible by road and only 100km (60 miles) south of
where Stanley uttered that immortal greeting “Doctor
Livingstone, I presume”, is a scene reminiscent of an
Indian Ocean island beach idyll.
Silky white coves hem in the azure waters of Lake
Tanganyika, overshadowed by a chain of wild,
jungle-draped peaks towering almost 2km above the shore:
the remote and mysterious Mahale Mountains.
Mahale Mountains, like its northerly neighbor Gombe
Stream, is home to some of Africa’s last remaining wild
chimpanzees: a population of roughly 800, habituated to
human visitors by a Japanese research project founded in
the 1960s. Tracking the chimps of Mahale is a magical
experience. The guide's eyes pick out last night's nests
- shadowy clumps high in a gallery of trees crowding the
sky. Scraps of half-eaten fruit and fresh dung become
valuable clues, leading deeper into the forest.
Butterflies flit in the dappled sunlight.
Then suddenly you are in their midst: preening each
other's glossy coats in concentrated huddles, squabbling
noisily, or bounding into the trees to swing
effortlessly between the vines.
The area is also known as Nkungwe, after the park's
largest mountain, held sacred by the local Tongwe
people, and at 2,460 metres (8,069 ft) the highest of
the six prominent points that make up the Mahale Range.
And while chimpanzees are the star attraction, the
slopes support a diverse forest fauna, including readily
observed troops of red colobus, red-tailed and blue
monkeys, and a kaleidoscopic array of colourful forest
birds.
You can trace the Tongwe people's ancient pilgrimage to
the mountain spirits, hiking through the montage
rainforest belt – home to an endemic race of Angola
colobus monkey - to high grassy ridges chequered with
alpine bamboo. Then bathe in the impossibly clear waters
of the world’s longest, second-deepest and
least-polluted freshwater lake – harbouring an estimated
1,000 fish species - before returning as you came, by
boat.
Getting there - Charter flight from Arusha, Dar or
Kigoma.
Charter private or national park motorboat from Kigoma,
three to four hours.
Weekly steamer from Kigoma, seven hours, then hires a
local fishing boat.
What to do - Chimp tracking (allow two days); hiking;
camping safaris; snorkeling; fish for your dinner.
When to go - Dry season (May-October) best for forest
walks although no problem in the light rains of
October/November.
ACCOMMODATIONS
MAHALE CAMP - This is exclusive camp, in a superb
setting on Kangwena beach, offers what is probably the
ultimate getaway, if for no reason than that remote.
Accommodation is in six rustic thatched tented bandas
without electricity or running water, although solar
power and bush showers mean you still have all the
comforts
Children under 12 years are not permitted on Chimpanzee
tracking walks.
NKUNGWE TENTED CAMP - On a long stretch of Lake
Tanganyika’s golden sandy shores, beneath the
magnificent Mahale Mountains, lies the new Nkungwe
Tented Camp.
An uninterrupted cacophony of beetles, crickets and
birds and the calls of Chimpanzees in the forest
accompany your stay at Nkungwe.
The camp is situated between Kasiha and Sinsiba streams
and is built with comfort and luxury in mind. Whether
relaxing in the lavishly furnished lounge, or on a Lazy
(Uvivu) chair overlooking the lake, Nkungwe Camp is the
perfect place to wind down and reflect on the wonders of
your day. A simple stretch on our cushioned beds on the
beach with a good book while contemplating your next
adventure is always a comfort.
GREYSTOKE MAHALE is in wildly exotic wooden bandas,
looking out across the soft sand beach, with interiors
fashioned from old seasoned dhow timber and decorated
with style and panache.
The six open-fronted bandas are set just on the forest
line, looking out over the lake, with dressing rooms
behind and upstairs chill-out decks; they are designed
with flair, generosity and passion for the most
demanding of castaways.
The bathrooms are set just behind, and accessible via a
short wooden boardwalk. They all have flush toilets and
powerful showers, with hot and cold water available on
demand.
The flight to Mahale is around 3-4 hours, and upon
arrival at the airstrip there is an approximately 90
minute dhow trip down the lake to reach the camp.
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